The silhouette at Dior Homme by Kris van Assche was lean and black. The first image that sprang to my mind was The Count, as in Dracula – with long flounces of fabric swathing him in mystery. But perhaps that’s just my own vampiric obsession. The coats were oversized to the max, really giving the impression of power and majesty. The colour palette was typically muted for autumn, only straying from black into neutral, beige and camel tones. There were tapered carrot-shaped trousers and snood-like collars like those seen so much in womenswear as of late, the only signs of a little androgyny in this largely ‘hetero’ collection. Text Becky Cope

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